A estrada entre Santiago e San Pedro de Atacama
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nesse post, quero falar um pouco do nosso itinerário de ida e volta pelo Deserto do Atacama, contar sobre a estrada, e citar onde paramos entre ir e voltar.
Antes de mais nada, aí vão algumas dicas para quem quer dirigir no Chile:
- Evite dor de cabeça: tenha em mãos sua carteira internacional de habilitação;
- Não ultrapasse a velocidade permitida das vias, em alguns trechos, perto de cidades grandes, os policiais estão equipados com Dodges e Camaros, no melhor estilo norte americano, então… melhor não arriscar;
- Mantenha aceso o farol baixo durante toda a viagem;
- Complete o tanque a cada 300km;
- Para mais informações e dicas, consultem o Libro del nuevo conductor para evitar problemas.
Bom, vamos lá. Havia chegado o grande dia, depois de uma noite de Natal ótima e um “enterro dos ossos” de despedidas de familiares queridos que estiveram com a gente naquela semana. Dia 26/12, às 6h, todos estavam preparados, bem descansados e animados para a expedição no deserto. Um rápido checklist antes de sair…todos os itens verificados…pé na estrada!
Entre as incertezas que tínhamos, uma delas era quanto ao trajeto. Sabíamos que percorreríamos a famosa rota 5, também conhecida como rota Transamericana. Quem está acostumado a viajar de carro sabe que é possível percorrer 1000km em 10h a 12h de viagem; contudo, ao consultar nosso amigo googlemaps, filhote do oráculo Google, ele nos informava que precisaríamos de 30h para andar os 1618km até San Pedro de Atacama.
O primeiro pensamento que veio à nossa cabeça foi: essa estrada deve ser ruim pra caramba! cheia de caminhões, sem acostamento, com muitos buracos… afinal de contas, estamos acostumados com este cenário por aqui, não é mesmo? Mas a realidade foi completamente diferente, fomos surpreendidos por uma estrada muito boa, com trechos de pistas duplicadas e nenhuma cratera. O asfalto no Chile é uma espécie de cimento, aparentemente mais resistente, não havia nenhum remendo. Ou seja, Google, você estava e continua errado… É possível fazer o trajeto de Santiago a San Pedro em menos tempo, de 18 a 20 hrs. É importante ressaltar que não há postos de gasolina a todo momento na estrada, lembre de encher o tanque sempre que possível, os postos encontram-se nas proximidades das cidades principais e, normalmente, existe apenas 1 estação de serviço. Em uma das paradas que fizemos, o posto estava sendo abastecido e tivemos que esperar um tempo antes de conseguirmos ser atendidos.
Trajeto de ida
Seguimos em direção a La Serena, que fica a 476km de Santiago. Já neste começo, constatamos que viajar de carro pelo Chile é uma experiência única, pois a cada 40km a paisagem muda completamente e parece que você está em outro lugar. O visual é magnifico.
Em 5 horas, chegamos nas proximidades de La Serena, viajando em pistas duplicadas. Como nosso estilo de viagem é: “quanto menos pararmos melhor”, paramos apenas para abastecer, fazer revezamento de lugares, ir ao banheiro e comprar algo para beliscar. Só aí, já ganhamos 3 horas e meia em relação à estimativa do Google. Seguimos viagem pela rota do deserto, agora por uma pista de mão e contra-mão, mas com um asfalto muito bom. Nosso destino final neste primeiro dia era Copiapó, faltavam 336km, que fizemos em 4 horas, completando o objetivo do dia às 15:00, ou seja, gastamos no total 9 hrs para percorrer 812km, uma média muito boa. Apesar de não estarmos muito preocupados em ter tempo para conhecer essas pequenas cidades, ainda conseguimos passear por Copiapó e descobrimos muitas curiosidades da região.
No segundo dia, a nossa meta era chegar a Antofagasta, saímos por volta das 7:00 da manhã e seguimos viagem. Assim que partimos, lembramos que estávamos perto da famosa Baía Inglesa e resolvemos dar uma parada para tirar algumas fotos. Como estava muito cedo e fazia muito frio, ou seja, sem nenhum clima para pegar uma praia, só tinha a gente andando pela cidade. Tudo parado. Dizem que o período de férias dos chilenos que vão para essas bandas se dá só em fevereiro, quando as temperaturas são mais altas. Ao seguir viagem passamos por um trecho de obras de renovação do asfalto e, como a estrada é simples mão e contra-mão, é feito um revezamento de passagem entre as faixas, o que nos atrasou um pouco, perdemos cerca de 1 hora para vencer esses obstáculos. Logo em seguida, desviamos da estrada principal para poder conhecer o Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar, um lugar lindo, com uma natureza estranha e estonteante ao mesmo tempo. Com todos os contratempos e turistada, chegamos a Antofagasta às 16:00, ou seja, 9 horas para percorrer 572km, tirar milhões de fotos, parando a cada “esquina” para dar aquela admirada no visual. Como chegamos cedo à Antofagasta, ainda deu tempo dar uma volta.
No terceiro e último dia de nossa viagem de ida, a meta era, claro, chegar a San Pedro de Atacama. Faltavam, apenas, 340km, então resolvemos sair de Antofagasta mais tarde um pouco, às 10:00, depois de cantar parabéns para a Mila, minha cunhada, e tomar café da manhã no hotel com bastante calma. Por volta das 13:00 estávamos chegando em São Pedro do Atacama e mais uma vez a estrada surpreendeu.
Uma coisa interessante que vimos durante toda a viagem foram casinhas super coloridas e enfeitadas com santos e velas ao longo da estrada, mini santuários. Elas são uma tradição muito comum no Atacama, para lembrar as pessoas que ali morreram em acidentes. Depois, pesquisando na internet, descobri que os atacameños costumam enterrar as pessoas no local onde elas morreram, e não em cemitério formais, então aquelas oferendas que víamos eram, na verdade, covas. Pode ter te dado um arrepio básico, mas os locais são super coloridos, enfeitados, há grandes e pequenos, alguns até possuem capinhas, cadeiras, etc., tudo aparelhado para que os familiares possam ir visitar seu ente querido.
Outra curiosidade sobre o Chile é que sua principal atividade econômica é a mineração, o país conta com a maior reserva de cobre do mundo. Durante a viagem é possível observar montanhas e mais montanhas de cobre que foram simplesmente sendo consumidas, corroídas, do topo à base, e que deixam para trás um conjunto de casas, que serviam de moradia para os mineiros. É impressionante a extensão do espaço vazio no deserto.
Uma parada muito interessante para tirar foto na estrada é a “Mano del Desierto”, ou mão do deserto. Trata-se de uma escultura localizada a 75 km ao sul da cidade de Antofagasta, na Rodovia Pan-americana. Foi construída pelo escultor chileno Mario Irarrázabal e inaugurada em 1992.
Trajeto de volta
Saímos de San Pedro de Atacama no dia primeiro de janeiro, depois de um ano novo tranquilo, mas animado. Já prevíamos que a nossa sorte seria pegar a estrada estaria vazia. A volta foi pelo mesmo caminho, com um pequeno desvio para poder transitar pela costa, ao invés de pelo interior, na altura de Las Bombas, pouco quilômetros depois de passar por Antofagasta. E valeu a pena viu?! o visual do mar é lindo, não tem grandes extensões de praias, a costa é bem rochosa e, pelo que vimos, os chilenos procuram deixá-la da forma mais natural possível. Nesse trecho vimos pequenos acampamentos, a galera tinha passado o fim de ano na beirinha do mar, sem confusão, apenas sob a luz da lua e das estrelas.
Para dormir, paramos em locais diferentes: Chañaral e La Serena. A primeira é uma cidade super pequena, mas que nos fez passar por fortes emoções…rsrs; a segunda é um balneário famoso, para onde os chilenos se dirigem para nadar nas águas geladas do Pacífico; mas nós passamos dois dias lá sem conseguir nem tirar a roupa para tomar sol… Contaremos mais detalhes das nossas paradas em outro post, afinal o objetivo aqui era passar algumas orientações para aqueles que queiram fazer uma viagem de carro até San Pedro de Atacama e, olha, eu digo que valeu demais!
Ops… Quase ia me esquecendo… Para quem não quer fazer esse trajeto de carro, é possível viajar para o norte do Chile em avião. Existem voos que vão de Santiago para Calama, a cidade mais próxima a San Pedro de Atacama que possui aeroporto. Em Calama, é possível contratar transporte (van e ônibus) ou alugar caminhonetes super equipadas com Santo Antônio, rastreamento via satélite e todos equipamentos necessários para você curtir uma aventura completamente off-road. Até São Pedro são, mais ou menos, 90km.
Bom é isso… até o próximo post… Grande abraço.
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